El Camino de Santiago, Spain: Week 1
Articles I have written for TheTrek.co about my Camino Frances pilgrimage hike:
Recently uploaded (January 2021) of 2017 Camino
I heard about the Camino de Santiago many years ago after thru hiking the Appalachian Trail and as most thru hikers who become addicted to trail life the camino was put on the to-do list. Years later it was put on the top of the list due to the shorter length and cultural benefits. When I finally got a seasonal job confirmed I decided to go ahead and make it happen.
El Camino de Santiago (the way of Saint James) is a Christian pilgrimage route finishing in Santiago de Compostela, Spain. The remains of Saint James is supposed to be at the cathedral in Santiago; therefore, Christians have been making their way there for over 1,000 years. Like other pilgrimages this one too could act as penance due for sins.
There are many routes leading to Santiago but the most popular and the one I am taking is the camino frances way. Over a hundred thousand people make the pilgrimage every year (some may take a shorter route). The camino frances starts just across the French border on the other side of the Pyrenees in Saint Jean Pied-de-Port and finishes 490 miles away in Santiago (or in my case I am continuing on 54 more miles to the "end of the world" in Finisterre on the Spanish coast).
My reasons for making this pilgrimage are not religious. I expect to meet people from all over the world, practice my Spanish, learn about the history and culture of the area, eat great food, drink excellent wine, and see a new country. What better way to see a country than to walk through it!
Gear List
Arc'teryx Axios 48L pack, Mountain Hardwear Ultra Lamina 32 degree sleeping bag (A liner would have been better), Black Diamond hiking poles
Clothes- Altra trail runners, Chacos, ExOfficio Bugsaway Damselfly pants, Columbia shorts, L.L. Bean Goretex rainpants, JL long spandex, Mountain Hardwear fleece beanie, Nike fleece gloves, 2 pairs Smartwool socks & 1 pair liner socks, Mountain Hardwear puffy, fleece vest, 2 wicking tshirts, 1 long sleeve light shirt, 2 long sleeve midweight, poncho, 3 pairs underwear, 2 sports bras, AL baseball cap, buff, Mountain Hardwear gaiters
Toiletries - toothbrush, toothpaste, nail file, Dr Bronners, chapstick, sunscreen, contacts, contact solution, glasses, shampoo, conditioner, comb, aloe vera, moleskin, bandaids, hand sanitizer
Misc- passport, book, journal, iPhone and cords, camera and cords, sunglasses, id, debit card, credit card, cash, toilet paper, swiss army knife, duct tape, emergen-c, pack towel, Chico reusable bag, garbage bag, Platypus Big Zip LP 3L water reservoir, Arc’teryx pack cover, Sea to Summit Aeros pillow (didn't use), Princeton Tec headlamp (didn't really use)
My journey:
✈️Atlanta ->Paris ->Valencia
🚂Valencia->Madrid ->Pamplona
🚌 Pamplona-> St. Jean Pied-de-Port
🚶-> Santiago de Compostela
At the famous bull ring in Pamplona (before taking the bus to Saint Jean)
Saint Jean Pied-de-Port, France
Pilgrim office in Saint Jean Pied-de-Port
April 14: Saint Jean Pied-de-Port, France to Roncevalles, Spain: 15.6 miles
Tough first day ascending the Pyrenees. So many people on the trail it felt like a race or march. Not much of a view at first due to thick fog but later the sun came through and I got great views of snow covered mountains in the distance. After lots of road walking it was nice to get on trail in the woods and soon after crossed into Spain and descended down to Roncevalles. Stayed in the only hostel (called albergue here) and it was like a castle. A local restaurant hosted pilgrim dinners so I sat at a table with other peregrinos from Malaysia, Spain, Germany, and Italy. Pilgrim menu consists of starter, entree, dessert, bread, and wine all for 10-12euros.
At the start in Saint Jean Pied-de-Port in France
In the Pyrenees (there are some snow covered mountains behind me)
Champagne and camembert snack
France/Spain Border
Boot room in the albergue
Pilgrim dinner in Roncevalles
April 15: Roncevalles to Larrasoaña: 17 miles
The day started off cold and drizzly but it never really rained. I walked through my first towns and at one I bought a baguette to eat with my cheese. I walked on roads, paved paths, gravel paths, and dirt paths today Ended the day with another group pilgrim dinner.
April 16: Larrasoaña to Cizur Menor: 13 miles
Easter Sunday I walked through Pamplona and stopped in Plaza del Castillo for a tapas break. Most of the day was walking on city sidewalks amidst the busyness of city life.
Bridge entering Pamplona
The Camino goes right through Pamplona
Plaza del Castillo in Pamplona
Tapas in Plaza del Castillo in Pamplona
The Way- Follow the shell or yellow arrows
April 17: Cizur Menor to Puente la Reina: 11.8 miles
Hike up to Alto Perdón and to the pilgrim monument located near the wind turbines on the ridge line. Got to town early and had many nice conversations with fellow peregrinos (pilgrims).
Pilgrim Monument on Alto Perdon
April 18: Puente la Reina to Estella: 13.6 miles
Started walking by vineyards and olive trees. Got to town early again and enjoyed walking around and finding the hidden plazas.
Walking towards Cirauqui amongst vineyards
April 19: Estella to Torres del Rio: 18 miles
All along the route mainly in towns are water fountains (fuentes), but there is a special one located outside of Estella that has wine. A local bodega (winery) provides the wine for the fountain. Of course I tried some, even when it was before 8:30AM.
Wine Fountain!
A plaza in Los Arcos
April 20: Torres del Rio to Logroño: 12.8 miles
I really enjoyed Logroño and had a nice night eating pinchos (known as tapas elsewhere in Spain) with a Dutch woman. We also went to a screening of a documentary on the Camino.
Chocolate croissant in Viana
Buen Camino - the saying on the trail
Next: Week 2
